As much as it is our responsibility to provide well-built tools, it is also your responsibility to provide accurate measurements and make adjustments to them, where necessary, to perfect your blocks.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.16″ text_font=”||||||||” text_text_color=”#62b4c7″ global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n #1 <\/span>Have you taken your measurements correctly?<\/a><\/p>\n #2 <\/span>Which block would you like to asses and fix?<\/a><\/p>\n #2a <\/span>Understanding the Basic Bodice and Torso blocks<\/a><\/p>\n #2b <\/span>Understanding the Basic Skirt block<\/a><\/p>\n #3 <\/span>Have you used the correct ease?<\/a><\/p>\n #4 <\/span>Do your measurements fall outside our reliable size range?<\/a><\/p>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_divider color=”#a8a8a8″ divider_position=”center” divider_weight=”1px” disabled_on=”off|off|off” _builder_version=”4.16″ height=”30px” custom_margin=”30px||30px|” disabled=”on” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text module_id=”measurements” _builder_version=”4.16″ text_font=”||||||||” background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” text_orientation=”justified” custom_margin=”60px|||” use_border_color=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Taking accurate body\u00a0measurements is the key to drafting well-fitting blocks. Learning how to interpret the body and take accurate measurements comes with experience. If you are new to taking measurements, then please be aware you might not get it right the first time, which means you might not be drafting accurate patterns first time around. The more you practice taking measurements\u00a0on a variety of different body shapes and sizes, the more efficient you will become at both taking accurate measurements and\u00a0spotting potentially incorrect measurements.<\/p>\n Our measurements and how they are taken are unique to our drafting process. PLease watch our video tutorial in full, even if you are a seasoned pro and have your own methods. It will save you time in the long run.\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_video src=”https:\/\/youtu.be\/tGN1DcJ0qK0″ _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_video][et_pb_text module_id=”basic-bodice-block” _builder_version=”4.16″ text_font=”||||||||” background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” text_orientation=”justified” use_border_color=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n We provide individual tutorials on the\u00a0profile page<\/a>\u00a0related to each measurement, however, since all body measurements are related to one another it is better to watch the entire video from start to finish two or three times, to familiarise yourself with the process. The video should be followed in full, and measurements taken in order. Use all the tools and techniques mentioned in the tutorial. If you can, mark the body to ensure your key points such as; Side Neck Point, Front Neck Point, Nape, Bust Apex, Shoulder Point, Waist, and Hip do not move between measurements.<\/p>\n Important points to remember<\/span><\/p>\n Once you have refined your measurements you will find drafting all of your basic blocks a very simple process, with excellent results each time.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_divider color=”#a8a8a8″ divider_position=”center” divider_weight=”1px” disabled_on=”off|off|off” _builder_version=”4.16″ height=”30px” custom_margin=”30px||30px|” disabled=”on” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text module_id=”specific-blocks” _builder_version=”4.16″ text_font=”||||||||” background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” text_orientation=”justified” custom_margin=”60px|||” use_border_color=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n We have produced a series of block-specific guides that show you how to spot and address your measurement errors that might cause ill-fitting basic blocks. Each guide explains which measurements go into drafting each basic block and how each individual measurement affects the drafting process. Learn about the importance of “delicate” measurements and how to adjust them to create well-fitting blocks. Usually, there are two scenarios where these guides come in handy:<\/p>\n A. Spotting and fixing broken blocks due to poor measurements<\/span><\/p>\n Although it is rare, broken blocks do happen! Mostly, it is due to missing a decimal place or entering a measurement in the wrong box on the profile page. To help you spot a broken block, and the incorrect measurements that draft them, we have created a handy block\u00a0preview tool that allows you to view your finished block and edit your measurements before downloading and printing. The tool allows you to edit or tweak your measurements as many times as you wish (Except the Bust, Waist and Hip). Once you have corrected and saved your measurements, the system will then redraft or update the block and create a new preview. Use the guides to spot broken blocks, which measurements are causing your block to break and then adjust them using the block preview tool. You can find the tool by\u00a0navigating to ‘My Account> My Orders> View order> Preview’.<\/strong><\/p>\n B. Refining a well-fitting block<\/span><\/p>\n You can also use the guides to make slight fit alterations to an already well-fitting block. Possibly your draft was accurate, you’ve toiled it in fabric, fit it on the model, but there are one or two slight alterations you would like to make? Great! you can use these guides to help you make those alterations. Simply revisit your draft on the My Orders page, click the preview button and edit your measurements from the block preview tool.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n #2a Understanding the Basic Bodice and Torso blocks<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n #2b Understanding the Basic Skirt block<\/a><\/span><\/p>\n We thoroughly recommend\u00a0familiarising yourself with these guides before and after the drafting process.<\/p>\n \n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_divider color=”#a8a8a8″ divider_position=”center” divider_weight=”1px” disabled_on=”off|off|off” _builder_version=”4.16″ height=”30px” custom_margin=”30px||30px|” disabled=”on” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text module_id=”ease” _builder_version=”4.16″ text_font=”||||||||” background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” text_orientation=”justified” custom_margin=”60px|||” use_border_color=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n Ease plays an important role when building a pattern, it provides the minimum amount of extra room needed to allow for comfortable, non-restricted movement, allowing you to sit, move, raise your arms and breathe easily. Ease is the difference between your actual body measurements and your finished garment measurements. The amount of ease added to a pattern changes how comfortably your basic block fits.<\/p>\n Unless you are a seasoned pro, you might not understand\u00a0how much ease should be added to get the best fit results. To help you, we have provided an \u201cAutomatic Ease\u201d setting for all our basic blocks. The Automatic ease setting analyses your custom measurements, calculates the optimum ease (using percentages) and applies it to your block during the drafting process.<\/p>\n Bust ease:\u00a09%<\/em><\/span>\u00a0of\u00a0Bust\u00a0measurement Using automatic ease should produce a comfortably fitting block each and every time, however, there are always exceptions. We provide a Custom ease selection allowing you to override the automatic ease and change it manually to suit your needs.<\/p>\n If your basic block is a proportionate and accurate fit yet feels a bit too tight or loose, it is most likely due to the amount of ease used during the drafting process. To resolve this issue, redraft your block this time selecting the “custom ease” option on the Fit tab. Selecting Custom ease bypasses our recommended ease and allows you to enter your own preferred ease.<\/p>\n Relaxed Fit:<\/span> Add a value that is slightly larger than the previous draft. You can work out the existing ease from our Bust, Waist and Hip percentages mentioned above.<\/p>\n Fitted or contoured fit: <\/span>Add a custom ease\u00a0that is slightly smaller than the existing draft. Be careful not to remove too much or your block might not fit at all.<\/p>\n Resolving an odd fit:<\/span>\u00a0For example, if your block is a\u00a0comfortable\u00a0fit but feels slightly tight around the waist, increase only the waist ease until a balance is reached.<\/p>\n Tip:\u00a0\u00a0To calculate ease, place a tape measure around your waist and expand it until you are happy with the distance from the body in terms of your desired fit. To assess how much ease you need, subtract the actual waist measurement from this measurement. This concept also applies to both bust and hips.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_divider color=”#a8a8a8″ divider_position=”center” divider_weight=”1px” disabled_on=”off|off|off” _builder_version=”4.16″ height=”30px” custom_margin=”30px||30px|” disabled=”on” saved_tabs=”all” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text module_id=”reliable-range” _builder_version=”4.16″ text_font=”||||||||” background_size=”initial” background_position=”top_left” background_repeat=”repeat” text_orientation=”justified” custom_margin=”60px|||” use_border_color=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”]<\/p>\n We use standard size ranges to gauge which size your custom set of measurements falls into. This size range dictates how possible or reliable it is to draft a block for those measurements. We currently support a total size range of UK4 \u2013 24, which you can see\u00a0demonstrated by our standard size charts,<\/a> however, we can only guarantee blocks that are drafted using accurate measurements in the size range UK4 \u2013 16. We call this size range our “reliable size range.”<\/p>\n \n [\/et_pb_text][et_pb_tabs _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_tab title=”Inches” _builder_version=”4.16″ global_colors_info=”{}”]#1 Have you taken your measurements correctly?<\/h1>\n
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#2 Understanding how we draft specific blocks<\/h1>\n
#3 Have you used the correct ease<\/h1>\n
\n<\/span><\/span>Waist ease:\u00a0<\/span>6%<\/em>\u00a0<\/span>of Waist measurement\u00a0<\/span>
\nHip ease:<\/span>\u00a05.5%<\/em>\u00a0of Waist measurement\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/h3>\n
Blocks that are too tight or too loose<\/h3>\n
#4 Do your measurements fall outside our reliable size range<\/h1>\n
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