Crossover Collar Neckline

The crossover neck looks tricky to pattern cut but is essentially quite a simple adaptation. It uses the side neck dart as a pleat to create complex-looking collar structure. This is one of our favourite necklines and works beautifully with the two-piece dress style. Changing the collar height and crossover neck depth creates a range of different design variations. The crossover neck can be used functionally as a front opening for a top or can be stitched closed into a skirt waistband to be used as a design detail.

Basic Block/ Sloper Elements

You will need a basic block that has a “Double” front dart to follow this tutorial and draft this neckline.

To save time, click the button below. We’ll create a basic block (in the Lab) that already has this dart preselected for you. All you’ll need to do is select a profile or one of our standard sizes. Don’t forget to purchase your block as an ePattern and not a PDF! PDF patterns can’t be edited, they can only be printed on paper. ePatterns ar fully editable digital basic blocks. 

Tutorial overview

1. Selecting, designing and drafting the correct blocks used to create the crossover collar neck pattern.

2. Opening the purchased ePattern basic blocks in Adobe Illustrator and pasting onto the cutting table ready for pattern making.

3. Measuring the back neck curve, creating the collar template and slash/spreading the top edge of the collar to create shaping. 

4. Rotating and aligning the collar to the neckline on the front block.

5. Marking points on the front block to create the crossover width/height and finally drawing in the new front neckline shape.

6. Marking depth of pleat-opening on the upper front dart.

7. Rotating closed lower front dart to increase size of pleat/upper front dart.

8. Creating a facing for the collar and front bodice block.

9. Adding notches to your block in order to match up pattern pieces.

Gallery

Cowl Neck Pattern Making Tutorial

The cowl neck is a gorgeous addition to any basic block or style. It’s a contemporary neckline that’s relatively easy to draft, making it a great neckline for beginners. It can be applied to the basic bodice block and any derivative style that features an untouched neckline. The finished pattern is cut on the bias (cut diagonally on the material) creating a soft and subtle drape effect. An elegant addition to any dress or top!

In this Cowl neck pattern making tutorial, you will learn how to add a cowl neckline to your basic bodice, torso or dress block, using Adobe Illustrator as a digital pattern making platform. We’ll show you step-by-step how to maniupate the block what tools you’ll need and how to create a variety of different cowl neck styles. Take a look at the cowl neck pattern making tutorial to find out more. 

Basic Block/ Sloper Elements

You will need a basic block that has a “Classic” front dart to follow this tutorial and draft this sleeve.

To save time, click the button below. We’ll create a basic block (in the Lab) that already has this dart preselected for you. All you’ll need to do is select a profile or one of our standard sizes. Don’t forget to purchase your block as an ePattern and not a PDF! PDF patterns can’t be edited, they can only be printed on paper. ePatterns ar fully editable digital basic blocks. 

Draft or Download a Digital Basic Block

Follow along with our tutorials and learn digital pattern making in Adobe Illustrator CC. Purchase and download one of our editable digital basic blocks. We have a few options for you to choose from...