Crossover Collar Neckline

The crossover neck looks tricky to pattern cut but is essentially quite a simple adaptation. It uses the side neck dart as a pleat to create complex-looking collar structure. This is one of our favourite necklines and works beautifully with the two-piece dress style. Changing the collar height and crossover neck depth creates a range of different design variations. The crossover neck can be used functionally as a front opening for a top or can be stitched closed into a skirt waistband to be used as a design detail.

Basic Block/ Sloper Elements

You will need a basic block that has a “Double” front dart to follow this tutorial and draft this neckline.

To save time, click the button below. We’ll create a basic block (in the Lab) that already has this dart preselected for you. All you’ll need to do is select a profile or one of our standard sizes. Don’t forget to purchase your block as an ePattern and not a PDF! PDF patterns can’t be edited, they can only be printed on paper. ePatterns ar fully editable digital basic blocks. 

Tutorial overview

1. Selecting, designing and drafting the correct blocks used to create the crossover collar neck pattern.

2. Opening the purchased ePattern basic blocks in Adobe Illustrator and pasting onto the cutting table ready for pattern making.

3. Measuring the back neck curve, creating the collar template and slash/spreading the top edge of the collar to create shaping. 

4. Rotating and aligning the collar to the neckline on the front block.

5. Marking points on the front block to create the crossover width/height and finally drawing in the new front neckline shape.

6. Marking depth of pleat-opening on the upper front dart.

7. Rotating closed lower front dart to increase size of pleat/upper front dart.

8. Creating a facing for the collar and front bodice block.

9. Adding notches to your block in order to match up pattern pieces.


Learn how to use Adobe Illustrator as a digital pattern making platform

Learn the step-by-step basics of digital pattern making in Adobe Illustrator in our short crash course. It’s your first step to producing digital sewing patterns like a pro.

Adding seam allowance

Follow this simple and handy tutorial to learn how to add seam allowance to your finished pattern in Adobe Illustrator.

Multi-page PDF patterns

Transform your finished pattern into multi-page PDF patterns in a range of paper sizes. Then save, print, share and sell your patterns online. 


  1. Ralph Pink

    Hi Abi. Thanks for your question.
    The new bodice block should be cut with the grainline of the fabric running parallel to the center front and center back lines. The back of the collar will have a bias which should ease the curve of the collar and neckline. Does this answer your question?

    • Abi

      Thanks so much! That’s helpful as a guide in case I want to change the style slightly on mine.

      • Ralph Pink

        Great! Glad to be of help 🙂

  2. Abi

    Hi, such a pretty bodice! How do you know where to place the grainline on the new front bodice piece, or more generally, how do you choose which edges of the fabric will be cut on the bias versus on a grain? Thanks so much for creating this lovely tutorial!


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