Understanding the basic Torso block & Bodice block – Women
The Basic torso blocks and bodice blocks use identical measurements and are drafted using the same points, which essentially means they are pretty much identical. There is only one real difference; the bodice stops at the waist and the torso extends to the hip and beyond, meaning the process for troubleshooting a Bodice and Torso are exactly the same. To keep things simple, we will now use the Torso block as the example for troubleshooting, since it is the longest block. Any issues that you might have with your Bodice block can be fixed by following this Torso guide.
Click all images for a more detailed and expanded view.
What does a proportionate Basic Torso block look like?
It’s really important to know what a well-fitting and proportionate Basic Torso Block looks like so you’re able to spot and fix issues with your own drafted blocks. Below are two examples. The first image displays an ill-fitting or broken Basic Torso Block, and the second image a well-fitting or proportionate equivalent. It’s important to be able to spot the differences between the two and understand which measurements are either way off or subtly incorrect.
The first block is broken because a selection of body measurements (blue lines) are either slightly too large or too small. This comes from taking poor measurements or from carelessly entering your measurements into the profile page. The result is a block that would fit the body around the bust, waist, and hips but would have body length issues and abnormalities higher up around the chest, back, shoulder and armhole, not to mention creating a very irregular fitting sleeve. It’s necessary to spot these issues and fix them by visiting the block preview tool and adjusting your incorrect measurements to create a more well-fitting and proportionate block.
Click all images for a more detailed and expanded view.
Ill-fitting Basic Torso Block
The following issues can be seen:
2. Long Shoulder: A steep armhole curve is created and a point appears at the shoulder, preventing the sleeve block from fitting correctly.
3. Short Chest: Significant armhole scoop on the front.
12 Short Back Width: Significant armhole scoop on the back.
14. Long Front Side Neck Point to Waist: Lengthens the front block significantly.
15. Short Back Side Neck Point to Waist: Significantly shortens the back block
Well-fitting Basic Torso Block
The diagram on the right displays a well balanced and proportionate block drafted using measurements that were both taken and entered into the profile page correctly.
If you feel you have taken accurate measurements and have made no mistakes when entering them into the profile page, you can always refer to our standard size charts. Simply look for the size that closely matches your custom measurements and then compare your ill-fitting measurement with the chart. If there is a big difference between the two measurements, use a measurement more in keeping with the chart. If the measurement is out only by a small amount then it is possibly correct but is being affected by another, incorrect measurement. A good example of this is the interaction of the Neck & Shoulder measurements.
What measurements are used to draft the Basic Torso Block?
To understand how to spot and fix a broken or ill-fitting Basic Torso Block, it is necessary to understand which measurements are used to draft the block and how each measurement affects the drafting process. Below is a diagram that aims to do just that. Please study it carefully. It will help when understanding which key areas are causing issues, allowing you to adjust specific measurements in the block preview tool, allowing you to redraft your pattern.
What are the delicate measurements?
Most of the body measurements are not overly “delicate”. You can get away with a lot when it comes to making mistakes, it all depends on the length of the measurement: The longer the measurement, the more margin for error there is. The shorter the measurement the less room for error – Bear this in mind when taking your measurements.
Delicate measurements are a selection of measurements that have a drastic effect on the fit of a block. Even a slight amount of error in delicate measurements can break the block. Below is a list of delicate measurements that will require special attention when measuring the body and
UNderstanding specific measurements
Neck measurement
The neck can be a tricky measurement to take, and it can have some dramatic effects on the fit of the block if it is either too large or too small. The Neck measurement locates or defines the Side Neck Point (SNP) which is used to dictate a lot of other important measurements including the shoulder. If the Side Neck Point is not located correctly the shoulder will either over-extend or fall short, this might not cause the block to break but it will cause an ill-fitting neckline, shoulder, and sleeve.
It is important to note, that the Neck measurement is distributed around the entire neckline, therefore, a slightly inaccurate measurement might not be easy to spot. If you are unsure about your Neck measurement and its effect on
Long neck
In this example, the Neck measurement is too large, causing the Side Neck Point to fall too far away from the Centre front and Centre Back lines. This in turn pushes the shoulder point further out causing it to overextend and a tip to form at the shoulder point. If the tip is too pronounced, it will prevent your sleeve block from fitting smoothly into the armhole.
Check your existing measurement for errors and either remeasure or decrease your neck measurement until a more well fitting block is drafted.
Short neck
In this example, the Neck measurement is too short, causing the Side Neck Point to fall too close to the Centre-Front and Centre Back lines causing the shoulder point to fall short. This is seen most clearly on the back panel – You will notice the back armhole becoming slightly convex and a notch forming at the shoulder point. This will prevent your sleeve block from fitting.
Check your existing measurement for errors and either remeasure or increase your neck measurement until a more well fitting block is drafted.
Proportionate neck
In this example, the Neck measurement is correct and proportionate to the block. The Side Neck Point will fall in the correct location causing the shoulder point to neither overextend nor fall short. The back armhole will be slightly concave, the front armhole curve will be balanced and neither a notch or tip will form at the shoulder point allowing your sleeve block to fit smoothly into the armhole.
Shoulder measurement
What seems to be a very straightforward measurement can sometimes cause problems, if it is either too short or too long. The shoulder measurement is the measurement between the Side Neck Point and Shoulder Point. Luckily, a disproportionate shoulder measurement is easy to spot since it has quite a dramatic effect on the drafted block.
Long shoulder
In this example, the Shoulder measurement is too long and is disproportionate to the block. The angle of the shoulder becomes shallow, an exaggerated point forms at the shoulder tip and the armhole no longer forms a smooth curve when the two blocks are joined at the shoulder. This in turn prevents the sleeve block from fitting.
In this instance, check your existing measurement for errors and either remeasure or decrease your Shoulder measurement until a more well fitting block is drafted.
Short Shoulder
In this example, the Shoulder measurement is too short and is disproportionate to the block. The angle of the shoulder becomes more acute, the back armhole becomes convex and a notch appears when the two blocks are joined at the shoulder. This in turn prevents the sleeve block from fitting smoothly into the armhole.
In this instance, check your existing measurement for errors and either remeasure or increase yourShoulder measurement until a more well fitting block is drafted.
Proportionate shoulder
In this example, the Shoulder measurement is correct and proportionate to the block, therefore, creating a balanced armhole. The shoulder angle is in accordance with the body allowing the shoulder seam to sit neatly on the shoulder muscle. Also, there is neither a tip or a notch at the shoulder point creating a smooth almost seamless curve allowing the sleeve block to fit smoothly into the armhole.
Neck & shoulder measurement
We previously mentioned the effect of subtly incorrect measurements that, when combined, break the block. The Neck and Shoulder measurement is a perfect example of this. Great care should be given to these two measurements as, if taken incorrectly, you may be left with a variety of undesired effects. We have outlined a few of the possible effects below.
Long Neck & Shoulder
When both the Neck and Shoulder measurement are too long, the Side Neck Point and Shoulder Point are moved away from the centre front. The angle of the shoulder becomes shallow, an exaggerated point forms at the shoulder point and the armhole no longer forms a smooth curve when joined at the shoulder, which prevents the sleeve block from fitting.
In this instance, check your existing measurements (Neck and Shoulder) for errors and either remeasure or decrease your Neck and Shoulder measurements evenly until a more well fitting block is drafted.
Short Neck & Shoulder
When both the neck and shoulder measurements are too short, the Side Neck Point and Shoulder Point are pulled closer to the centre front. The angle of the shoulder becomes more acute, the back armhole becomes convex and the block will no longer accommodate the sleeve block. You might also find that the neckline is too tight to accommodate the models neck.
In this instance, check your existing measurements (Neck and Shoulder) for errors and either remeasure or increase your Neck and Shoulder measurements evenly until a more well fitting block is drafted.
Proportionate neck & Shoulder
A correct Shoulder and Neck measurement will create a balanced armhole curve and a well fitting neckline. The shoulder seam will sit neatly on the shoulder muscle. No tip or notch will appear at the shoulder point and the two blocks, when joined at the shoulder seam, will create a smooth curve to accommodate the sleeve block.
We’ve seen the effect of the Shoulder and Neck when they are both either too long or too short. But what happens when the Shoulder is too long and the Neck too short or vice-versa? This is a bit trickier to spot since the block might look well proportioned due to the longer measurement taking up the slack for the shorter measurement. Either way, the block draft will still be incorrect. It is important to pay close attention to the balance of the shoulder and neck when fitting the finished block on your model.
Long Neck & short Shoulder
When the Neck is long and the Shoulder short, it is particularly hard to tell if the block is ill-fitting since the overall proportions of the block look correct. However, if you look closer you will notice the front bust dart slops over to the left (rather than being centralised around the bust point), and the shoulder angle is slightly acute. Although the width across the top of the shoulders from point to point might be close to correct when fitting, the shoulder seam would raise up on the body and the neck would be far too wide.
In this instance, check your existing Neck and Shoulder measurements for errors. Either remeasure or decrease the neck and increase the shoulder measurements, to create more well fitting block is drafted.
Short Neck & long Shoulder
When the Neck is short and the Shoulder long, it is particularly hard to tell if the block is ill-fitting since the overall proportions of the block look correct. However, if you look closer you will notice the block features a shallow shoulder seam and tiny neckline. Although the width across the top of the shoulders, from point to point, might be close to correct, when fitting, the shoulder seam would lift up away from the models shoulder and over extend causing a tip to appear at the shoulder point preventing the sleeve block from fitting smoothly.
In this instance, check your existing Neck and Shoulder measurements for errors. Either remeasure or increase the neck and decrease the shoulder measurements, to create more well fitting block is drafted.
Proportionate neck & Shoulder
A correct Shoulder and Neck measurement will create a balanced armhole curve and a well fitting neckline. The shoulder seam will sit neatly on the shoulder muscle. No tip or notch will appear at the shoulder point and the two blocks, when joined at the shoulder seam, will create a smooth curve to accommodate the sleeve block.
Chest & Back Width measurements
Time and time again, our customers get these two measurements wrong so here are a few examples to help you with yours. The Chest measurement controls the scoop or horizontal depth of the front armhole and the Back Width controls the scoop of the back armhole. If entered incorrectly, the results are often problematic for the drafted block and therefore the matching sleeve. It’s very important that these measurements are measured and entered with care.
Large Chest & Back Width
If the measurement across the chest is too large, the front armhole will become shallow and loose, causing extra material at the armhole. If the Back Width is too large it will cause the back armhole to have a convex shape, creating a poorly fitting sleeve block.
In this instance, check your existing Chest and Back Width measurements for errors. Either remeasure or decrease both measurements, to create more well fitting block is drafted.
Small Chest & Back Width
If the Chest and Back Width measurements are too small, then the width across the chest and back will cause the block to have an unnaturally deep armhole scoop. This will in turn restrict the movement of the arm and also create an oversized sleeve block.
In this instance, check your existing Chest and Back Width measurements for errors. Either remeasure or increase both measurements, to create more well fitting block is drafted.
Proportionate Chest & Back Width
A correct Chest and Back Width measurement will create a balanced armhole curve on the back and front, offering just the right amount of coverage across the back and chest at the armhole. It will not restrict the arm’s movement and will draft a well proportioned sleeve block.
Armscye depth measurement
The
Long Armscye Depth
A long Armscye Depth will cause a very relaxed fit to the Basic Torso Block under the armpit and result in an oversized sleeve block. If the Armscye Depth is too long, the arm will be restricted when lifting the arm above the shoulder (only when sleeve block is attached)
In this instance, check your existing Armscye Depth measurements for errors and either remeasure or decrease the Armscye Depth measurements, to create more well fitting block is drafted.
Short Armscye Depth
A short Armscye Depth will cause a tight fit to the Basic Torso Block under the arm – cutting into the armpit. If it is too short then it will be difficult for the model to fit her arm through the armhole once toiled. The unusually high back dart will also cause the block to become slightly tighter across the back, since more material is taken up by the dart.
In this instance, check your existing Armscye Depth measurement for errors and either remeasure or increase the Armscye Depth measurement, to create more well fitting block is drafted.
Proportionate Armscye Depth
A proportionate Armscye Depth measurement will create a comfortably fitting armhole that will not cut into the armpit, restrict movement of the arm upwards and will draft a proportionately-sized sleeve block.
Ease issues
Ease also plays a big part when it comes to well-fitting skirt blocks. Quite possibly all of your measurements are correct, however, your ease might be too small or too large, causing some minor fit issues. Generally, if your Basic Skirt Block looks proportionate and follows the natural line of the body, but is either slightly too tight or slightly too small, then most likely it is due to the ease that you have selected. You can learn more about ease here.
Measurements that affect the lower torso (skirt)
If you are having issues with the fit of the lower half of your Torso block, then take a look at our Basic Skirt Block troubleshooting guide. It will show what important measurements are used when constructing the lower half of the block, such as; Waist, Hip, and Waist to Hip measurements. These can often cause ill-fitting torso blocks if the measurements are either not taken accurately or entered into the profile page incorrectly.
How to correct a broken basic block
All body measurements are important when it comes to drafting a well-fitting block. However, if your Basic blocks break, then it is most likely due to one significantly inaccurate measurement or the combination of two or more slightly inaccurate measurements. We recommend using the “block preview tool” to visually asses whether your block is broken or if it requires some measurement adjustments.
Block preview tool
The block preview tool, allows you to edit or tweak your measurements as many times as you wish (Except the Bust, Waist
Experience is a wonderful thing! With time you will understand how your custom measurements affect your drafted basic blocks. The more you experiment with a range of sizes and tweak your measurements, the more you will understand how to take accurate measurements and draft well-fitting blocks first time every time.