S1. EP11. Bikini cover up photoshoot on location in Corfu

S1. EP11. Bikini cover up photoshoot on location in Corfu

S1. EP11. Bikini cover up photoshoot on location in Corfu

In this episode, we take you behind the scenes of our Bikini cover up photoshoot on location in Corfu, Greece. Originally, we were going to create a small lifestyle photoshoot simply using the gorgeous location and an iPhone. However, we were very lucky to meet a lovely girl called Anastasia, whilst drinking one night in Corfu town. She mentioned that she was a photographer and would love to help us with the photoshoot. She also mentioned that she had a team of friends who could all contribute to the photoshoot with hair, makeup, styling, art direction and some videography work. We leapt at the chance to collaborate and create some high-end fashion photography to really show off the bikini cover-ups.

The Corfu Team

Anastasia
Photographer
@aftertheraincomesthetears

Giannis
Art direction & Styilng
@vinyl_face

Irini
Makeup
@irini_sth

Sophia
Hair
@bootytsa

Francesca
Model
@francesca.elise

Thanos
Videographer
@maker.23

We’re a massive advocate of collaboration and showcasing students and young professionals who work in our industry. So we just want to say a huge thank you to Anastasia, Giannis, Irini, Sophia and Thanos, who helped us with this project. We couldn’t have done it without them! We got some great results and had a fantastic day. If you want to see more from each of them and what they are currently working on, then click the links above to view their instagram accounts.

Hopefully we’ll get a chance to work with them again!

The Lookbook

S1. EP10. Pattern Making and Constructing the Long Coat Kimono Bikini Cover-up Sewing Pattern

S1. EP10. Pattern Making and Constructing the Long Coat Kimono Bikini Cover-up Sewing Pattern

S1. EP10. Pattern Making and Constructing the Long Coat Kimono Bikini Cover-up Sewing Pattern

In this episode, we look at the next garment in our range of bikini cover-up sewing patterns. This time we focus on the Long Coat which is essentially a skinny kimono with a chevron hem, waist tie, long sleeves and made from a gorgeous Japanese Ikat cotton.

To start, we take Francesca’s measurements, enter them into PatternLab to draft her made to measure basic sewing blocks. Once the Lab has drafted the basic blocks, we then transfer them to Adobe Illustrator and pattern cut the basic blocks into the finished kimono bikini cover-up sewing pattern. The pattern making process only takes about half an hour, since the pattern is quite simple. Once we have our finished pattern, we print it in full scale using our PDF print template. The print template separates the bikini cover-up sewing pattern up into individual A4 pages which can then be printed and stuck together to create the finished full-scale paper pattern. Once printed, we then construct the garment, hang it on a mannequin and assess the design. We don’t have much time until the holiday, so this time we go straight to finished fabric without first constructing a toile. Either way, the finished result is fantastic and a great addition to Francesca’s holiday wardrobe!

In this tutorial we do not show the pattern making process, instead we give you an overview of the finished bikini cover-up sewing pattern. If you would like to know how we drafted this pattern from Francesca’s made to measure blocks, then navigate to the bottom of this blog post. There you will find the pattern making tutorial in full. 

 

Gallery

The Long Coat Bikini Cover-Up Sewing Pattern – Pattern Making Tutorial

Want to learn how we drafted Francesca’s made to measure Long Coat bikini cover-up sewing pattern using Adobe Illustrator? Great, watch the below tutorial to see how. We show you in detail how we transformed Francesca’s made to measure basic sewing patterns or basic blocks into this gorgeous skinny kimono style, using a few basic additional measurements and Adobe Illustrator as a pattern making platform.

 

Learn Digital Pattern Making in Adobe Illustrator

Love the concept of pattern making in Adobe Illustrator CC? Great, why not take a look at our courses. We show you exactly how to use the platform, the various tools you’ll need and where to find them.  It’s completely FREE so why not have go?

S1. EP9. Some Exciting News – Indigo Robe Fabric & Bikini Cover-ups!

S1. EP9. Some Exciting News – Indigo Robe Fabric & Bikini Cover-ups!

S1. EP9. Some Exciting News – Indigo Robe Fabric & Bikini Cover-ups!

We’ve got some fantastic news! We’ve finally got the gorgeous Lily print fabric back from Fashion Formula! We sent off the print about two days ago and it’s just come back, which means we can now start making Francesca’s Indigo Robe. Not only that, but we’ve finally booked a holiday! We wouldn’t normally mention it but to celebrate we’ve decided to design and make a series of gorgeous bikini cover-ups for Francesca, before we leave at –the end of the month.

 

Francesca’s Indigo Robe – Lily Print Fabric has Arrived!

Earlier in the week we contacted Fashion Formula and asked them to print 3 metres of our custom designed Lily print so we could start construction on Francesca’s Indigo robe. Two days later we received our print and it looks gorgeous! We opted for a high sheen satin, picked from their extensive collection of fashion fabrics. All in all it cost around £57 for the print so roughly £20 p/metre. There is one slight issue which was completely our fault- he scale of the print is slightly smaller than Francesca requested. However, it still looks fab. As we’re running the Edinburgh marathon over the weekend, I have asked a Tosca, an excellent machinsit and samplist to make the dress up in our absence so it’s ready in time for our holiday on the 29th! So more images of the finished garment are still to come. In the meantime, here is a close up of the print and that high sheen satin from Fashion Formula!

Bikini Cover-Ups for Corfu!

Ok, so let’s crack on, there is soo much to get through! Since we’ll be going away on holiday in just under a week, it seemed important to get the ball rolling with our collection of Bikini cover-ups. We printed a few fashion templates, courtesy of Prêt-à-Template and put pencil to paper. Once the preliminary sketches were created, we imported them into Adobe Illustrator and created some precision digital illustrations. We then added colour and fabric scans to bring them to life. We chose a selection of Japanese Ikat cotton from The Cloth House, located on Berwick Street London- check out their website, they have a wealth of gorgeous fabrics to choose from. Here’s a close up of the fabrics we sourced.

Japanese Ikat cotton is a great material to work with. It drapes well and is effortless to sew. The most fascinating thing about Ikat cotton is the patterning. The individual fibers are dyed before the weaving process begins. This creates a striated pattern effect that is impossible to achieve with print. You can read more about it on Wiki here.

sHere are more polished version of our Bikini beach cover-ups created using adobe Illustrator. 

Learn Digital Fashion Illustration in Adobe Illustrator

Want to create your own digital fashion illustrations from your hand-drawn sketches? Great, watch our FREE video tutorial and get the basics.

The Poncho Bikini Beach Cover-Up – Pattern Making Tutorial

With our collection of beach cover-ups designed, we set about creating the pattern. We used Francesca’s individual measurements, added them to a profile in PatternLab,  selected the relevant basic blocks in the Lab and minutes later PatternLab created them for us. We downloaded them as an e-pattern and imported them into Adobe Illustrator ready to transform them into our finished Poncho sewing pattern.  45 minutes later we had created our pattern ready for construction in our chosen fabrics. If you want to see the pattern making process then scroll to the bottom of the post and watch the full video. 

Learn Digital Pattern Making in Adobe Illustrator

Love the concept of pattern making in Adobe Illustrator CC? Great, why not take a look at our courses. We show you exactly how to use the platform, the various tools you’ll need and where to find them.  It’s completely FREE so why not have go?

The Finished Garment

Once the pattern was created and the fabric cut, it took around 2.5 hrs to construct this simple yet gorgeous garment. We’ve added some pics for you to take a look at! Let us know what you think in the comments below. Do you like the fabric choice? What would you have done differently?

Pattern Making tutorial –  Kimono/ Poncho cover-up

Want to know how we created the sewing pattern for the Poncho bikini coverup showcased in this week’s episode? Great! Check out the video tutorial below to learn how. We show you how we transformed our custom fitting, PatternLab, basic block into this gorgeous yet very simple pattern using Adobe Illustrator.   

 

S1. EP8. The Final Toile of Francesca’s Indigo Robe

S1. EP8. The Final Toile of Francesca’s Indigo Robe

S1. EP8. The Final Toile of Francesca’s Indigo Robe

In this episode, we take one more look at Francesca’s original Indigo Robe pattern and make the adjustments detailed in the fitting session from Episode 7. We shorten the sleeves, widen the cuff, create a cross-over neckline, draft a smaller chevron panel on the back and front (more in proportion with her height) and completely redesign the skirt to create more fullness at the back and sides. We also add 30cm to the back to create a train that falls onto the ground. The overall look is far more dramatic! Once the adjustments have been made we re-sample the Indigo Robe in Calico fabric and see the results in our final fitting.

This video blog provides a basic overview of how these changes have been made to the pattern in Adobe Illustrator. If you want to see a more in depth view of these changes, scroll down to the next video.

What is a Toile or Sample and Why is it Such an Important Step?

A toile or sample is an early version of a finished garment made up in cheap fabric so the design can be tested and perfected before the final garment is constructed.

Making a toile or sample from your initial pattern is an IMPORTANT part of the design process. Constructing a finished garment, without toiling first, could lead to unforeseen issues with either the fit or design proportions of the finished garment. Both episode 7 and 8 detail the process of toiling to perfect the finished design. 

Often Calico material is used to make the initial toile. Calico is a very cheap fabric cost as low as £2.50 per meter. Unwashed, calico is a structural fabric that is slightly stiff and works well for suits, jackets and other structural garments. Washing Calico causes the fibres to soften and shrink, creating a far softer draping fabric that works well for dresses, shirts, and other non structural garments. Calico comes in a range of thicknesses or weights. The weight of calico used to toile depends on what type of garment you wish to create.

Marking with pen or pinning the toile allows you to alter the garment, or record what changes need to be made. This is then transferred to the pattern and a new toile is made with those changes. This process can take multiple toiles depending on how much the garment needs to be changed. 

Toiling can be a good way of discovering how the garment should be constructed or in what order the panels need to be joined to create the finished garment. Your toile will also help you work out and test fastenings, closures  or any other complicated design details. 

Making adjustments to Francesca’s Indigo Robe – Pattern Making tutorial

This video expands on the above video blog and details the process of transforming Francesca’s existing Indigo Robe pattern (created in S1. EP7+) into the FINAL robe pattern/toile. This is not a detailed tutorial about the pattern making process, instead it is more of an overview of how we made the adjustments to her original Indigo Robe pattern. Once we have finalised the robe pattern we will create a full length and in depth tutorial that can be used with your own made to measure PatternLab blocks. 

 

Learn Digital Pattern Making in Adobe Illustrator

Love the concept of pattern making in Adobe Illustrator CC? Great, why not take a look at our courses. We show you exactly how to use the platform, the various tools you’ll need and where to find them.  It’s completely FREE so why not have go?

S1. EP7. Creating An Initial Pattern & Toile – Indigo Robe

S1. EP7. Creating An Initial Pattern & Toile – Indigo Robe

S1. EP7. Creating An Initial Pattern & Toile – Indigo Robe

In this episode, we update our existing mood boards and fashion illustrations to display the textile prints that we created in the last episode. We also get Francesca’s feedback on which design and print combination she prefers for her robe. We then start the pattern making process by creating the relevant basic blocks using PatternLab and Francesca’s unique measurements. We then imported the made to measure basic blocks into Adobe Illustrator and start to draft the initial robe pattern. Finally, we make the first toile to assess the design aesthetics and fit of the garment ready to begin the final finished pattern of Francesca’s robe.

Establishing which design we will pattern cut and toile up

Unfortunately, we were not able to get Francesca in to review the final design presentation on video. However, we did manage to send the design boards to her via email once they were completed.

The presentation boards consisted of the original mood boards, a selection of four designs (strongest from the entire range), a selection of custom textile prints (that we created for the project) and finally a variety of designs that showcased the prints and designs together. We then asked her to make her selections.

 

We created this board to display the final four designs which were by far the strongest out of the entire collection. We asked her to pick her favorite from this lineup. She selected Dress D (highlighted with black square)

Once the design had been selected we applied four of our favorite custom prints to the illustrations to give her an idea of what the finished print might look like on her design. She then chose D4 as her favourite. (highlighted with black square).

Once the print had been chosen we resized the print to give four options to choose from. The print is largest on the left and smallest on the right. She loved option D4ii (highlighted with black square).

Design Presentation Download (PDF)

Want to see the whole presentation as it was sent to Francesca? Click the button below to download and view the PDF.

Learn how to design textile prints

Learn how to create your own floral source imagery and turn them into high-res, full-repeat, digital, textile prints for digital printing on to fabric.

Final Design

Once Francesca had decided on the design, print type and print scale, we sent her the final, full-size, fashion illustration to give her a good idea of what her robe might look like. This allows us to draw a line under the initial design process and start the pattern cutting and toiling stage of the project. 

Learn Digital Fashion Illustration

Follow our in depth video tutorial and learn how to create digital fashion illustrations in Adobe Illustrator

Pattern Cutting Francesca’s first robe toile

This video expands on the above video blog and details the process of transforming Francesca’s made-to-measure basic blocks (created using PatternLab) into the initial robe pattern/toile. This is not a detailed tutorial about the pattern making process, instead it is more of an overview of how we created her pattern. Once we have finalised the robe pattern we will create a full length and in depth tutorial that can be used with the your own made to measure PatternLab blocks. 

Learn Digital Pattern Making in Adobe Illustrator

Love the concept of pattern making in Adobe Illustrator CC? Great, why not take a look at our courses. We show you exactly how to use the platform, the various tools you’ll need and where to find them.  It’s completely FREE so why not have go?

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