Dart Manipulation & Waist position

Dart Manipulation & Waist position

We recently received an email from Minna, asking us some important questions about her recently purchased made-to-measure basic torso block. We felt it was a fantastic question and something that we could help with.



I recently created and downloaded a thigh-length base torso from your wonderful service – but something seems to be not right with the piece.

When I move/close the chest dart the bust line is broken and not straight. Plus the waistline and hem are not 90° to CF or CB

I have attached an image of the pattern as it is + with the chest dart moved.

Am I missing something here?



Broken bust line:
Not to worry this is also correct. You are closing the dart using the dart point and not the bust point. Try the dart rotation once more, but this time use the bust point. This is a small dot located after the bust dart. Take a look at our video tutorial. This will show you how to correctly manipulate the dart. If you follow this technique then the bust line will match perfectly.

Please don’t worry, this is perfectly correct. We have bust expansion formulas built into our blocks to accommodate for a large range of unique sizes/ measurements. We use the “Front SNP to waist” and the “Back SNP to waist” measurements (among others) to determine the size of the bust. If the Back SNP to waist measurement is smaller than the front then the waistline will be higher at the back than the front. This is what you are seeing on your block. Your SNP to waist is larger on the front than the back, therefore, the slightly diagonal waist line. This feature creates an accurately fitting block and prevents a sway back issue, that can be found on most standardised blocks which use an equal Front SNP to waist and back SNP to waist measurement.

Learn digital pattern making

Learn how to customise your made-to-measure basic blocks and slopers using Adobe Illustrator as a pattern making platform, using our in depth video tutorials. It’s completely free!

Deleting an old profile

Holly wants to know how to delete an out-of-date or existing measurement profile, so she doesn’t accidentally use it to draft out-of-date blocks. It’s a simple process which shouldn’t take too much time to explain! 


Hi, I noticed I have a few profiles that I no longer need and want. Is there a way to delete them, so I wont confuse them with the ones I want to use and maintain? I would greatly appreciate a way to fix this so I’m not accidentally using them when I want to download a new block. Thank you sooooo very much. Sincerely,



Yes, you certainly can delete an existing profile! It’s quite simple. Here’s how you do it…
1. Make sure that you are logged in to your account.
2. Navigate to the Profiles page.
3. Select the profile you wish to delete from the drop down list.
4. With the profile selected, click the blue “REMOVE” button from the button menu above the profile drop down list.
5. The system will ask you to confirm the removal, so click OK and you’re all done!

Learn digital pattern making

Learn how to customise your made-to-measure basic blocks and slopers using Adobe Illustrator as a pattern making platform, using our in depth video tutorials. It’s completely free!

Update! Restrictions for plus size measurements and petite have been lifted

Update! Restrictions for plus size measurements and petite have been lifted

What’s new?

We have now lifted petite and plus size measurements restrictions for all of our basic sewing patterns.

Are you frustrated with our restrictions on petite and plus size measurements? Do you want to experiment with drafting basic blocks that actually fit your plus size or petite clients? We’ve had hundreds of people email in with requests to lift the measurement restrictions, Well, we listened! This means no more frustrating red error messages! Or having to add unnecessary ease to get a larger bust, waist or hip measurement.

Below is an image of what you used to see! These error messages prevented you from entering accurate measurements for plus sizes and stopped you from drafting and experimenting with plus size basic blocks.

Now the profile page look something a bit like this… Note the larger measurements and the lack of error messages?


Start drafting plus size blocks

To experiment with this new update, simply login, navigate to the profile page, add your plus size measurements and draft your plus size basic sewing patterns or basic blocks! There are no limits to how large your measurements can be, so be careful not to make any mistakes!


Editing your plus size measurements after purchase

Working with plus size measurements can be a bit tricky, which is why we’ve also added a handy post-purchase block and measurement editor tool. You can now change your measurements after purchase as many times as you like. Once your happy with the changes, hit the Done button and we’ll redraft your block at no extra cost. This should help you to get that perfect plus size fit.


This new feature doesn’t just apply to new orders. You can now edit existing orders, change your measurements (using the editor) and we’ll redraft the block with the new plus size measurements. Don’t worry we won’t charge you, it’s included in the existing price.

Give it a whirl and let us know what you think!

Bikini cover-up lifestyle shoot on location in Corfu

Bikini cover-up lifestyle shoot on location in Corfu

Although we absolutely loved the High-fashion photoshoot, we always planned to take some lifestyle images of Francesca in her bikini cover-up whilst we were away on holiday. To be fair, there isn’t much to do in Paleokastritsa apart from drink, eat and run around taking ridiculously over-filtered pictures of each other in a beautiful setting. It was just a case of where to go?

Luckily Anastasia knew the place well and had some great recommendations. She suggested La Grotta! The name speaks for itself… It’s a secluded little beach hideaway bar located just down the road in Paleokastritsa.

It features a stunning little rocky bay with jetty, turquoise water and is overlooked by a series of raised sun decks. A perfect location for our day and the shoot! We fell in love with it and it’s pretty safe to say we spent the next few days sprawled out in this little piece of heaven.

Although we just used the iPhone, I think we captured the vibe of the place, the bikini cover-ups and the sheer fun we had really well.

1. Poncho Bikini cover-up

First up we have the poncho or kimono bikini cover-up

If you’ve been following the video blog from Season 1, then you should know this piece inside and out. It’s a simple kimono-style cover-up that drapes beautifully, especially when cut from soft floaty cotton. We’ve used a black and white Japanese Ikat cotton fabric to construct the body and some black hand weaved cotton trims to complete the garment. It’s simple to make and we’ve even got a video tutorial of how to draft your own using PatternLab’s custom made to measure basic blocks. Either way, Francesca loved it and we think it looked fabulous on her!  We used the jetty at La Grotta since the scenery was to die for. 

Long coat bikini cover-up

Last but not least we have the long coat bikini cover-up

This piece is possibly our favourite out of the two, due to the fabric choice and the chunky drawstring at the waist. When the drawstring is pulled tight it gathers the coat at the back creating a bolero style upper half and a long heavy train of fabric that cascades down the back of the body. We only wish we got more images of these gorgeous pieces transitioning from beach to night. We had hoped to get some images of these pieces being worn with a slinky evening dress whilst dining out. Unfortunately, we didn’t get round to it. Hopefully, we’ll get some more images in the coming weeks at a fancy London restaurant! 

Once again, you can draft this gorgeous piece to fit your own unique measurements, using PatternLab’s made to measure custom fitting Basic blocks and our in-depth pattern making in Adobe Illustrator tutorials.   

We love the Long coat bikini cover-up but we’d love to know what you think. Feel free to write a comment using the form below.

S1. EP11. Bikini cover up photoshoot on location in Corfu

S1. EP11. Bikini cover up photoshoot on location in Corfu

In this episode, we take you behind the scenes of our Bikini cover up photoshoot on location in Corfu, Greece. Originally, we were going to create a small lifestyle photoshoot simply using the gorgeous location and an iPhone. However, we were very lucky to meet a lovely girl called Anastasia, whilst drinking one night in Corfu town. She mentioned that she was a photographer and would love to help us with the photoshoot. She also mentioned that she had a team of friends who could all contribute to the photoshoot with hair, makeup, styling, art direction and some videography work. We leapt at the chance to collaborate and create some high-end fashion photography to really show off the bikini cover-ups.

The Corfu Team


Art direction & Styilng





We’re a massive advocate of collaboration and showcasing students and young professionals who work in our industry. So we just want to say a huge thank you to Anastasia, Giannis, Irini, Sophia and Thanos, who helped us with this project. We couldn’t have done it without them! We got some great results and had a fantastic day. If you want to see more from each of them and what they are currently working on, then click the links above to view their instagram accounts.

Hopefully we’ll get a chance to work with them again!

The Lookbook

Pin It on Pinterest